Roti King | Doric Way, NW1

You will find the original Roti King restaurant, like many fine dining establishments, next to a den of questionable repute. In this instance, it’s SECRETS – London’s Premier Adult Club, on the corner of Eversholt Street and Doric Way. 

Probably best to fit in your lap dance before your Roti King experience as I imagine that a bit of gyration post-Kari Laksa can only lead to some sort of projectile-vomit- curry disaster.

Ever since receiving a shit-hot review from Marina O’Loughlin at The Guardian there has been a queue outside Roti King’s rather grim façade (its looks like a little basement hole-in-the-wall with an outdoor loo...) which can last up for to an hour. Said review is immortalised on the back of the menu, should you wish you to reinforce your restaurant choice once you’ve sat down, though you will be too hungry to leave at this point regardless.

As you enter the restaurant (and are surprised by how light and charming the interior is) you are greeted, though not literally, on your left by a gentleman rolling out dough which will become the buttery and flaky roti which accompany each curry dish here. I like to call him the Roti King.

Roti are not dissimilar to the parathas you find in the South of India which remind me of the doughy bottom of a Yorkshire Pudding, though they are drier and crispier. Resist the urge to order more roti until you have actually received your food because you’d be surprised how filling they are. If you still have room, you could take this as an opportunity to try one of the King’s filled Roti – I hear the cheese one is worth a punt. And while the roti is worth waiting in line for about 15 minutes for, it’s the curries that really make an hour of queuing worthwhile.

The Roti Canai Special with lamb curry is what I always order here. And that is because it’s bloody life changing – and I don’t say that lightly. The lamb curry is powerfully peppery and oh-so savoury, and the meat is always tender. On occasion, you can get a meat-on-the-bone heavy bowl, which can strike fear into those who don't like to eat with their hands. I do not suffer from this affliction and am quite happy to get stuck in, especially when it tastes this good. The roti makes light and flavoursome work of mopping up this mouth-watering sauce, though I would quite happily drink this dark, brooding curry by the bowlful and regret absolutely nothing.

As this is a Malay joint, the culinary diversity of this region is reflected in the menu - with Chinese and Thai dishes as well. Our usual order has the addition of Kangkung Belacan which is described on the menu as ‘Morning Glory cooked in Shrimp Paste’ – saucy! The stir-fried morning glory, or water spinach, looks like a plate of the green spring onion tips with an almost identical texture. And while the smell of fermented shrimp is not the most appetising, this home-style dish is simultaneously earthy, sweet, garlicky and extremely addictive.

As this outing was a pre-birthday treat, we opted for Beef Ho-Fun (Ho Fun being a favourite of my beautiful companion and me) and it was pretty average. The kind you would get from any take away so feel free to skip this addition.

Of course I’ll be back. I’m probably here now, as you’re reading this, greedily tipping back a little bowl of lamb curry into my mouth and using a roti, napkin-like, to wipe any sauce from my chin. Gorgeous.

The damage: £23.80 including two drinks and the forgettable Ho Fun. 

Notes:

Roti King doesn't serve alcohol but bring your own and there is a £10 corkage fee. They also only take cash so be sure to pick some up from Euston station on the way.

Roti King

40 Doric Way, 

Euston, 

London NW1 1LH